Hunter 260 Owner Modifications and Upgrades

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260 with A/C

posted 10-07-2008 by John Baumgartner

This photo is of the Mermaid M5 5200 BTU unit in place (aft port locker) I had see where someone had place this unit under the V-berth, I didnt want to loose this prime locker space and the big reason I wanted A/C was for the stern bunk. The measurements of the unit are L-15, W-11, H 11.5. I bought the unit to also heat (reverse cycle). I built a platform out of 1/2 in marine plywood and attached the platform fwd to the divider that the aft false bulkhead is attached to, and made legs that are fiberglassed to the hull

A/C at last

I left about 3 inches clearence between the unit and the storage locker door for return air as you can see in the next picture

maybe a better picture

This vent that came with the kit fits the stowage door like it was made for it. What you see to the right is the 4 inch supply line (hard duct) that I covered with marine carpet that sends cold/warm air foward.

return air vent

Flexiable duct from the unit feeds the aft bunk which is adjustable in direction and amount of air flow. You can also see 1 of the 3 type 27 Gel batteries on board.

aft bunk supply-stbd aft

I tried to match the marine carpet with the background wall covering (fron LOWES). You can also see the smart battery 20 AMP charger.

supply air (aft bunk) going fdw

again covered with marine carpet

supply air (wet locker)going fwd

Made the shelf to make the space more useful. air supply going fwd is underneath

shelf aft of head sink

hard supply duct with battery cables to aft port locker

air supply under shelf

Had to do some adjusting from hard duct to hard duck with flexable duct (need to make a self here)

Under head sink

hard duct to y connection. you can also see the second of the three batteries (are held in place with 1X1 that are glued to top of ballast tank)

aft port locker

2 of the three

air supply vents

thru hull fitting and ball valve, had to place the ball valve where I could turn 90 deg to be able to open and shut with getting in the way of anything else and easy to get to. The thru hull fitting, ball valve, filter and the pump had to be below the water line. ( not many places to chose)

the hard part

the bowl has to be in a position that you can remove and clean. my position was just forward of the bilge pump. All the parts (filter and supply water pump are attached to the underside of the aft bunk with SS screws and supported by platform epoxied to the top of the ballast tank.

filter

again screwed to the bottom of the aft bunk and suported by marine plywood epoxied to the top of the ballast tank

supply water pump

I had the depth sounder transducer from a past project (works great)

overall picture

just like the one at home, programmable

A/C controls

to feed all the ac power, only wish the meter was amps instead of volts, used 12 gage marine wire thru-out the project. Now this feeds the A/C. battery charger, and a wall outlet (used manly for the Coolmatic refrigerator)

AC ckt breaker

red button is DC fresh water sink pump, black DC Ckt breaker is for refrigerator. This is the space that the ice chest used to be. Normally the refrig. is connected here when the generator is running, on the hard, or docked

AC GFCI outlet

one of the best investments, draws 3.5 DC amps about 35% of the time, makes great ice cubes

Coolmatic compressor refrigerator

removed the wall miror and install this cabnet in its place ( has mirror on door)

med. cabnet

Click image for largest view