The inner steel tube is completely retracted inside the outer one. The upper end is a stock 4-inch rubber trailer roller and bracket that is welded to the top of the upper tube.

The cross pieces near lower end are spaced the same vertical distance apart as the rudder pintles on the transom. There is a hole in each one for the pintles.

Mast crutch in trailering position

This is the position for raising the mast. There is a steel pin that goes through a hole in the inside tube to keep the crutch extended.

Mast-raising sequence:

1) with crutch in trailering position, go to the bow pulpit, unfasten the mast and slide it aft along the crutch roller until the pin in the mast base lines up with the holes in the mast step. Pin the mast base in place.

2) attach the A-frame to the lifeline stanchions and jib halyard. Rig the lifting tackle between the A-frame and the forestay chainplate in the anchor locker.

3) Go to the transom, and extend the crutch until the hole in the bottom of the inner steel tube clears the top of the outer tube. Pin it in place. The mast should now be at about a 45-degree angle.

3) Go to the cabin top and use the lifting tackle to raise the mast. Make sure both sides of the split backstay and all four shrouds are clear. The mast goes up VERY quickly, so dont forget to keep and eye on the T-ball fittings at the upper ends of the shrouds. They must rotate properly into place, otherwise they can break under tension.

4) Keeping the lifting tackle tensioned, connect the forestay to its turnbuckle and tighten as needed to give the right amount of mast rake. If the shrouds are slack you can do this by hand. Mine takes 40 full turns to get the rake right.

5) Tighten the uppers to get the right amount of prebend

6) Tighten the lowers to stiffen the midsection of the mast.

7) Tighten the uppers as needed to keep them from going slack when sailing closehauled.

Mast crutch in extended position