I modified my crutch with a roller, and secure it to pintels so that it cant turn.

Walk mast back

Balancing the mast on the roller with the crutch in the lowered position, I tie a line 1 long between the mast foot and base to hold it in position, hovering, go aft and raise the crutch, and then position and pin the base. This takes a bit of effort, so I am in the process of designing a crutch I can crank up.

Secure foot

There are two sets of poles fashioned from a pair of 10 3/4 electrical conduit (EMT), one for lifting, the other for stabilizing. The lifting pole assembly base is placed in the hatch gutter when ready.

Lifting pole base placement

The 10 sections of 3/4 electrical conduit are flattened, drilled, and fastened together. I used a quick link, but other methods would do such as a nut and bolt, or knotted line. There are two sets of these pole assemblies.

Pole assembly

Form a sling from the stabilizing pole apex loosely around the mast. This sling should not slip and tighten under tension, but should provide only enough room to allow the sling to ride the mast as it is raised, and to allow lowering of poles when raising is complete. The base of the poles are then placed in the base of the stanchions forward of the cabin hatch. Though I havent done this, you will may find a need to drill another hole in the base of this pole assembly to secure it to the stanchions with another quick link or line. This would ensure stability on uneven ground or especially breazy days.

Secure stabilizing pole assembly to mast

As you can see, the line does the lifting, the stabilizing poles go for the ride, and the sling isnt especially tight.

Detail of sling

Though this photo may seem out of order, I wanted to show the positions of the stabilizing poles, bases in stanchions; and lifting poles, bases in hatch gutter. Protect boat finish from poles with rags.

Detail of pole positions

Secure line to lifting pole apex with a secure knot, then lift and place lifting pole bases in hatch gutter. The distance should be so that the lifting poles are slightly aback from an upright position, so that when the mast is fully raised they dont reach the deck or get in your way when you are securing the forestay. Keep slight tension on forward part of line to keep the lifting pole from falling.

Secure line to lifting pole

Poles in position, slight tension on line to hold lifting pole in place. Let me make a note of the line. It is 3/8 braided from the hardware store, NOT NYLON. I mention that because I used nylon lowering the mast once (nobody told me, this is my first boat), and to make a long story short, the mast lowered in record time.

Pole positions

This pulley is fastened with a swivel to that....whatever, in the fore of the anchor locker. Get stout hardware, for a lot of force is applied here.

Run line forward through lifting block

Run the line from lifting pole to lifting block to winch. Four turns on the winch and tension on the free line is enough when winching. More turns will result in line getting all fouled up on the winch. When lowering you will find two or three turns enough friction to maintain control.

Line from lifting block to winch

Using winch, raise mast. Despite my best of preparation, I often find shrouds tangled on something, but this is no problem. Cleat off the line, clear the rigging from whatever its fouled on, and resume. Still, extreme caution is advised, and stay clear of any place you might find yourself pinched in. Its best to get the mast upright as quickly as possible.

Raise mast

Crank mast upright with winch, good and snug. This will give you plenty of slack to make securing of forestay easier.

Secure line to mast cleat

Secure forestay, slack lifting lines, remove lifting assembly, and tune rigging.

Secure forestay