A picture that you have seen. I see that the wiring looks like it is attached to the flange. But it is fully twelve inches forward of that flange. This just a quick way to get the 12 volts back to the panel.

The engine bed mounts are in the approximate position but almost an inch too low. The new engine mounts will make up about 3/8 of that. So I will shim using a combination of rubber and epoxied hardwood.

I am having the new mounts welded for a 17.0 inch span between the centers of the big bolts. The 2QM20 was 16.9 and the new ones come stock at 14.6 inches.

Almost clean engine bed.

Here I try to illustrate the prop shaft height above the engine bed rails. It is about 1.5 inches. The problem lies in that the new motor has a difference of 0.3 inches between the bottom of the big mount and the shaft center. So I have to make up for that 1.2 difference. There is only 0.6 inches of play on the adjustment bolt.

Prop shaft height.

Here are the new mounts. The two bigger ones on the left are for the front. The bar stock is almost 1/2 thick. The other two are 1/4 bar stock. I have asked the weld shop to use the same thickness stock. The extensions will be welded onto the bottom of the existing mount. So I will automatically get that increase in height. The new holes will be 1 and 1/8 farther outboard on each mount. This should give me the 17 spread that I need. The engine bed mounts are different between front and rear, 100# front and 75# rear.

The new mounts.

Not entirely related is this muffler picture with the water heater removed. There is every evidence that the original tank was round. You can see how they butchered the muffler mounting block to get the rectangular tank(Seward S700) in there. Muffler and hose look good and are now at home. That muffler screws to the back of that block. There is no way to get it out except to remove that block. I will replace the outlet hose end cause I never want to go back in there again. Time marches on and I am running out.

Muffler and exhaust.