After researching the windlass issiue, I chose the Quick Rider 1000 and purchased it through Marisafe here in the US. The other unit that we seriously considered was the comparable Maxwell windlass. We felt that it was the best choice for us however you will want to look yourself. There were several factors that we considered however we wanted a Vertical with a drum (for hauling the bosuns up the mast with less effort as well as other deck work) and we did not want a unit that had a chain pipe feeding the chain/line downward as ite anchor is retrieved.

We considered these other options but we felt that we would need to put an anchor chain pipe down through the vberth into the storge compartment under the vberth and convert that to a draind locker for it to be viable.

The exhisting anchor locker on the 35.5 is somewaht shallow and putting in a Horizontal windlass or even a vertical with a downward chainpipe would mean reconfiguring the locker so that the windlass could sit in or on the locker hatch. In this view you can see that the unit is not centered on the deck. This is because the anchor roller on the 35.5 feeds in at an angle and not directly in from the bow. By mounting the windlass a little off of center we make the feed to the bow roller a bit more of a straight line and the output into the chain locker is more centered on the locker. It still requires clearing the line/chain as it comes in however I believe that this would be the case with any similar vertical unit and this boat.

Top deck View fron Forward looking aft

In this view you can see that we positioned foot switches on the port side just aft of the locker. When measuring and cutting the holes for the windlass as well as the foot switches it is important to allow for working room in the V berth.

Make sure to measure both above and below decks before determiningthe best place to cut.

The templates provided by the mfg. work well. I used a drill for the windlass base bolts and a high speed Jig saw for the shaft hole.

Deck view from aft looking forward

After drilling the mounting bolt holes and cutting out the shaft hole. You will need to enlarge the size of the hole in the headliner to accomodate the mounting bracket. Otherwise the mounting plate would crush the headliner since there is a 1-2 inch gap between the headliner andthe bottom of the deck.

I used a router and a couple of hand tool cutters to make the hole large enough. The Deck on the 35.5. is about 1/8th of an inch to thin to mount the windless directly to the deck. I had to create a backing plate/spacer to add about 1/2 an inch. You could do this on top of the deck or below deck and the appropriate material is up to you. Notice in the picture how the cutout with the router is not perfect. I will be using a moulding to make it look cleaner. In the photo you can also see the white colored backing plate.

Close up from Vberth of motor

The other thing that the backing plate does when mounted under the deck is to create more space between the motor and the headliner. when I tried to mount the motor directly to the underside of the deck I noted that the motor was actually touching the headliner. The backing plate drops the position of the motor so that it is clear of the headliner. In this view you can see how I ran the primary power wires (#2 battery cables). They drop down to shelf on the starboard side and run aft along the inside of the teak moulding. I made an ~2 1/2 inch cutout into the to of the starbord hanging locker and the cable continues aft through to the hanging locker.

Motor view full

When drilling the foot switch holes I tried to only drill downward far enough to get through the deck but not the headliner. Mission not accomplished. Toward the port and starboard sides of the boat in the vberth the space between the headliner and the deck diminishes to a very thin space.

There is a small access plate under the chain locker on the port side that will allow you to reach up into the cavity between the chain locker and the headliner and over the headliner and grab the cables pulling them forward (not shown).

I cut a hole into this same cavitiy on the starboard side above the shelf and used a fish tape to pull the wires through to the starboard side where I could run them back as needed with the primary battery cables. I need to buy larger white plugs to put into the holes shown..

Oops! Foot switch holes

The cable enters the photo from the left into the closet through the hole previously discussed and goes to the upper right (aft) side of the locker. I decided to mount the solenoid here for easy access.

The cables are cable wrapped and attached to the top back corner of the locker. I will be putting wire covering on the entire run once we are complete with the project.

The cables continue aft by dropping down in the back corner of the locker.

The cables make an aft turn at the bottom of the locker into the space behind the settee (see next photo)

Starboard hanging locker and solenoid

You can see that I made similar size cutouts to run the cables back to the Nav panel and subsequently the batteries. This will make future cable runs easier.

Cable run behind settee

I decided to place the main breaker on the primary panel. It is the red toggle switch shown upper right side. The wood panels on the nav station are too thick for the switch to be installed directy into the wood so I found an appropriate space and drilled a hole for the switch in the panel. Label still to come. The switch supplied with the Windlass will not fit into the panel as the others do nor should it be installed there. It needs to be on its own cables directly fed from the battery or other appropriate bus.

Main breaker for Windlass

The windlass will require a second lower voltage breaker that will supply power to the foot switches and the cocpit control if you chose to install one. We have a secondary panel due to the additional equipment weve added as we prepare to cruise so we put the breaker for the switches there.

Secondary DC panel

As you probably already know, the cable tray that runs aft from behind the nav station on the starboard hull is already full of cables. I decided to create a second access below the existing cable tray to provide additional wire run capability. I used the space behind the shower stall to run the cables aft. It is tight and you need to measure carefully. After doing this I put my cordless drill behind the nav panel on the starboard hull and drilled back into the space behind the shower stall (up high as you can). Again I used a 2-3 inch hole for future access. You will probably need to remove the VHF or the FM stereo to allow access to the drill.I then drilled a similar hole in the mediciine cabinet (up high in the back of the cabinet) pointing forward. You can then use a fish tape to pull the needed wires through behinds the stall without removing the stall. (Pictured) Also notice that I left a pull string for the next project.

Access aft via shower stall

After drilling through the wall seperatng the medicine cabinet you can pull the cable further aft. This picture shows the cable leaving the medicine cabinet heading into the aft cabin through a space that already exists. I did not take any further pictures however it is pretty straight forward from here. The cables come into the aft cabin on the starboard side shelf and then run aft along the inside edge of the shelf. In the aft starboard corner of the cabin, above the shelf, you will see an openning similar to the one shown in this picture that provides access to the battery locker. From there it is just a matter of wiring to the Mfg. instructions. I also have a cockpit up/down toggle switch next to the existing control panel but that is also an easy part once youve gotten this far.

If you have any specific questions, Email me at alopez865@earthlink.net

Aft Medicine cabinet cable run