I finally got to this job on my list last month. I removed the 4 fixed ports on our H34, replaced the acrylic, repainted the aluminum frames ( not sure this would work with the plastic ones on subsequent years) and re-installed them.
Here are the steps:

Step1- removed the windows and frames. Remove the interior trim, it is only fastened with the screws you see. Remove the screws on the outside and carefully pry the frame away with a large screwdriver. If you pry gently but firmly the sealant will stretch then give way. Use 2 screwdrivers and move steadily from one end to the other. Dont bend the frame. I found this step went a lot easier than I had anticipated- probably took less than 10 min per frame. I left the acrylic in the frames and took them home to clean up. See images 2 and 3 for a view of the opening with the window removed and a look atthe underside of the frame

Step2- remove the old acrylic- use a pair of pliers to pull the old ratty rubber strips out and then the acrylic will push out with a bit of prying. Mine all came out without breaking. Then comes the hardest part -cleaning up the old frames.See Image 4

Step 3- clean up the old frames- Cut and scrape as much of the old silicone and other sealant plus the double sided rubber tape away from the frame. I used DAP silicone remover- put it on and leave for a couple of hours. It really doesnt work that well but it does soften the sealant. Again cut,scrape,brush,wash etc. It is very important to get ALL the silicone off as nothing sticks to it, not even new silicone. I sanded all the surface that new silicone needs to stick to with a fairly coarse (about #60) emery cloth to create a fresh surface. I probably spent about 4 hours on each of the larger ports. Image 5 shows a cleaned up frame

Step 4- Mask and prime with Zinc Chromate paint (yellow in colour) 2 coats then I used 3 coats of Tremclad flat white. You could use Interlux primer and 2 part Perfection for a really good job. I did not because I was looking for a paint I could spray on. See image 6

Step 5- cut the acrylic. I moved up to 1/2 inch thickness as I was not going to use rubber sealant strips. I have no idea where to get them plus they look ratty in a short time. The thicker material moves the outside surface more flush with the frame. I left about 1/8 space all around between the plexi and the frame. I included a drawing showing a cross section(Image 10). If you are careful you can get the 4 lenses out of a piece 14X48. You might want to buy 15X48 just to give your self a bit of margin. I included a diagram as to how I laid the pieces out- this should save you about 4 hours of jigging and measuring! I used a radial arm saw and a sharp 60 tooth 10 blade. I had to make several passes on each cut or the saw would bind. See image 11 for the layout

Step6- Setting the lenses- I cut a 5/8 strip from the lens covering paper all around the inside surface and a 1/8 strip around the outside. I gently sanded the exposed 1/2 strip for better adherence. I used 1/2 inch Butyl tape to bed the inside of the lenses. Put the tape all around the flange then CAREFULLY set the lens in place. Once in place you cant move it so go careful- I set one end in place and put a thin dowel across the frame while I got the one end in place then took the dowel out to ease the rest of the lens down. Clamp the lens against the flange using a longer piece of wood across the inside of the frame and a shorter piece against the lens. Put just enough pressure on to make the Butyl bulge- not enough to make it much thinner. You can trim this bulge off after the butyl has firmed up. See image 7

Step 7- Mask the frame on the outside and the lens - the protective paper loosens when it is damp from the 795 and does not mask well. Cut the 795 tube to give about a 3/16 opening with a slight slant. Put the opening tight against the space and go slow and careful with just enough pressure, letting the sealant fill the whole space including the little notch in the edge. The Dow 795 is really a nice product to handle- just the right consistency to flow but not drip. When you are finished filling use your finger moistened in a soapy solution - dishwashing detergent works fine- and trowel off the joint to leave it flush with the plexi. Go slow and careful and dont press to hard- you can make several passes. It will not take long to get the hang of it. Use a plastic putty knife to remove the most or the excess from the taped frame and lens then remove the tape. Use paper towel moistened with paint thinner to clean up. I used gray sealant as I understand it has better UV resistance. White would also look nice, black sounded too messy.

Step 8- finish the edges of the opening in the cabin top. These are pretty rough- depending on how careful and skilled the guy with the Sawzall was. I used a coat of un-thickened epoxy first to waterproof the plywood coring then another coat of thickened epoxy to fill the gaps and even up the edge. I then clamped it to create an as even a thickness as I could. Be careful on the tight fitting spots or you will leave your self with a lot of sanding. If you can time it right you can take down the epoxy very quickly with a Micro rasp/surform tool when the epoxy has not quite hardened. I did this step while doing the window cleanup and painting etc. See image 8

Step 9- Installing the finished window- Mask the frame and the cabin top around the outside of the frame. I set the frame in place dry and traced around it then masked outside that. Remove the frame and inject sealant in the right angle around the outside of the frame - no need to spread it- it will squeeze out into the space around the opening and under the outside flange of the frame. Be careful to put enough on- I used about a good 3/8 bead. Put the frame in and screw the crews in but not right tight- you dont want to squeeze all the 795 out. Leave at least a 1/16 gasket. Trowel with your finger and soap solution, remove excess with putty knife, remove tape and clean with paint thinner as before.

Step 10- Remove the rest of the protective paper, Admire your work. My cost was less than 200$. The total project took probably 24 hours spread over 10 days. I did the windows one at a time due to space limitations and in order to minimize the time that the boat was open to rain. See image 9 for the finished product. I dont see these leaking for at least some time if ever.