The head and the holding tank in my 1985 H34 were showing their age.

First thing after I decided to upgrade to a new head and a larger tank was to post this drawing and ask for Peggy’s opinion. Thanks for all your help with this one and the several other questions I asked.

Oh yea if you look close there are only three vented loops in the drawing. The one to the left of the pump is not a vent (doesn’t have a vent on top).

The next thing was to read dozens and dozens of postings as well as manufacturer’s literature and sections from a variety of books. This entire research effort because the one book I needed was not published yet!

Planing for a new head and holding tank

Next step was to remove the cabinets from the V Berth. The starboard cabinets were the most difficult to disassemble. There were lots of 1-1/2 bronze screws holding things together. The middle shelf from the cabinet has been removed and is laying in front of the cabinet.

V berth Cabinets

This work was done in January and February while there is 26 inches of snow in the area. I needed the heater and could not get close enough most of the time.Behind the heater the forward section of the V berth has been removed. At this point I am still taking apart the drawer cabinet.

Cold in the winter

V berth cabinetwork has been removed and the fiberglass is what is left. The dirty marks on the glass are from the sides of the drawer cabinet and the plywood bulkhead that was fitted on the forward side of the drawer unit.I measured the area and consulted the manufactures catalogs to figure out which tank would fit in this space.I mocked up several tanks from cardboard while trying to identify the tank that would fit the best.

Fiberglass exposed

The Raritan 30B126 30-gallon tank looked like it was the best all around choice. I build a cardboard mockup of the tank and measured all the clearances. I checked the host routing and planned the cradle for the tank.

Tank Mock-up

I talked to Vic at Raritan several times to verify dimensions and my planned fitting locations. I also asked Peggy about the clearance needed for the 90-degree fittings and I made sure I have space for them.I ordered the tank, which was delivered in two weeks.

30 Gallon Tank is Ordered

While the tank was on order I held my breath, crossed my fingers and cut the v berth apart. I wore out several jig saw blades in the process but I removed a large chunk of glass and plywood.

Absolutely scary while you are cutting your boat apart. Now is not the time to have second thoughts.

Cutting Fiberglass

Cut a little, fit a little, grind a little off here and sand a little more over there until it looks like it will fit.

Gee did I build the mold correctly.

Will this fit?

I built the bulkhead and cradle from ¾ MDO plywood. Shaped it to fit and painted it white.

Now we wait for the tank to arrive.

Cradle and Bulkhead

Tank is here and it is pretty close to the model. My cardboard was over size about 3/8-inch front to back.

The next step was to take everything apart and glass the two new bulkhead pieces to the hull. Even with the right sanding equipment, good protective mask and suit and the dust collector from my wood shop I still had fiberglass and paint dust everywhere in the boat and on me.

One of the harder items was to work in this confined area to remove the paint from the fiberglass so I got a good bond between the plywood and the hull.

Six layers of glass tabbing were added to each side of both bulkheads, sanded smooth and then everything got a coat of white paint.

Tank Arrives and It Fits!

More MDO plywood was cut and fitted as a tank cover. Later I added a lift out lid so I could get to the inspection cover on the tank.

MDO is also called signboard. It is exterior plywood with a resin impregnated paper face.

There is about 6 “ of space between the top of the tank and the underside of the lid.

Next is hoses and a head.

Tank Cover

I started to mock up the supports that replace the support that was provided by the drawer casing that will not be used in the v berth.

V berth Supports

When I took out the old 20-gallon holding tank, I also removed the gate valves. The 1-1/2 inch valve was frozen shut and the ¾ valve had a rusty stem that could fail at any time.

The previous owner left a round base seacock on the boat that I tried here but wound up using for the galley sink.

The triangle shaped units shown in the next picture allows the screws to go thru the hull in a circle that falls outside the area under the mushroom cap of the thru hull. I installed the thru hull, screwed down the seacock and then drilled the three holes for the flat head screws.

The screws used with the round base seacock come thru the hull and are under the lip of mushroom cap of the thru hull fitting. What a pain to get everything lined up to drill the holes but not drill into the underside of the mushroom cap.

I think that falls under experience.

New Seacocks

I added two seacocks, a strainer, and a seawater wash down pump. The bronze thru hulls were then bonded together and to the common ground with #10 green wire.

The yellow handle on top switches the output of the strainer from the head to the pump.

Seacocks, strainer, and a seawater wash down pump

So now I either have a new storage place or a great area to add heating or an air-conditioning unit where the old holding tank used to be.

It is now the last week in March and I still have to add hoses, and a head.

The next posting will be in April and will finish this project.

Starboard Settee