..on the boat. And I dont mean at the marina, there we just walk up to the full sized shower. She wanted a hot shower at anchor. So the search began.

I knew what I wanted, I saw them in Japan when I lived there in 82-84. Just couldnt find them in the US. Then Steve Weinstein (Cherubini-33 Hydro-Therapy, NY) gave me a lead. The Excel. Google Excel water heater or go to EBAY and search for them.

After researching the heater, I ordered one. When it arrived two days later, I installed in on my workbench using the pump and propane from my boat. It worked as advertised. Heres a quick overview:

-Runs on propane and 2 D cells for igniter
-Requires no external vent. When burning, I can hold my hand within 6 of the vent comfortably
-Has an oxygen depletion sensor. If O2 levels get below a set point, the system shuts down.
-Heats water up to 45 degrees above ambient
-Within moments of water flowing through the heater, the flames are on. The moment water stops flowing, the flames go out. No pilot. I used a shower head with a trigger to start/stop the water flow.
-The heater doesnt care if the water flow is stopped before, or after it.
-I pumped a 5 gallon can dry in about 2-1/2 minutes with comfortably hot water throughout.

If you plan on installing one of these, youll need a propane locker. See my article in the photo forum about the lockers Joe Rheubeck and I added to our C-H33s.

My Wife Really Wanted to take hot showers..

Long ago I removed the bladder type holding tank that occupied the back side of the head bulkhead and replaced it with a rigid tank. I got the idea from Terry Arnold. See his project at:

http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Arnold73062670170 and fno=17

or check the archives.

This meant I could mount the heater in the starboard locker, on the head bulkhead. I considered mounting it in the shower, but theres not enough space.

My Holding Tank

had to be moved. It had been located right where I wanted the put the heater. So out came the discharge line, stinky work, and its cold, so the hose is stiff. Once out, I left it in my heated garage overnight which made it more flexible, and ran a heat gun over it periodically to keep it flexible while working with it.

I enlarged the hole that the original hot water heaters plumbing went through (Im guessing, the heater was long gone when I got the boat). I used a 2-1/2 hole saw in a drill, sorta held parallel to the hull. I did it without a centering bit which requires slow going to get started. I stopped frequently, reached up from the pump space to make sure the saw wasnt cutting hull. The enlarged, angled hole allowed the hose to drop from the holding tank, run across the bottom of the pump space and into the head.

The Holding Tank Discharge Line...

Up until now, two water lines ran to the galley sink, and two to the head sink. I have no desire for hot water faucets, wasteful to my way of thinking. Now, three lines run off the pump. One to each sink, one to the water heater. Under each sink a T sends the wate to the hot and cold taps.

The large white hose is the head discharge line just talked about. The next smaller white hose is the head water supply (note the remote control arm, see my last submission for details), and the black hose is the propane line. Its routed from the propane locker, into the pump space. I elected to put a shut off valve at this end of the line for servicing purposes, but its probably not necessary.

I then reorganized the pump space

On the bottom of the heater are three 1/2 threaded pipe fittings, properly labeled. Propane enters on the left, hot water exits the center, and cold water enters the right side (as were looking at it).

Note the hot water line exits stage right and connects to a chrome street ell. Well get back to that in a moment

The Final Product

I used 1/2 brass street ells (from the local hardware place) to bring the propane and cold water lines over the opening in the pump space cover.

Quick Disconnect fittings from McMaster-Carr will make winterinzing easy. The propane fitting is the same kind I used on campers for years, you dont have to turn off the propane, it self seals. The valve is probably redundent. The water disconnects are oriented so that if the heater is removed, the lines will connect together and youll still have a cold water shower.

Now, lets see whats on the other end of that chrome street ell, a chrome threaded nipple passes through the bulkhead and connects and tightens this to a...

Plumbing up close

I spent most of a day hitting plumbing suppliers before I found one who really does custom work. You wont find these in your ACE, Home Depot, or other generic plumbing shops. At least I couldnt.

Im still looking for a holder for the shower head. The generic ones wont work with the stainless hose.

One concern I have (of many) is that the trigger in the shower head might allow water to flow through the heater, and allow the heater to operate. So...

Plan B will be to route the cold water from the pump to a Grohe water control valve ($115 from custom plumbing suppliers, 1/4 turn on/off), which will be mounted just above the shower drop ell. From there the cold water will go to the heater and then to the shower head.

I used Grohe fixtures when I rennovated my fixed yachts (i.e. houses) bathrooms. Very nice, but pricy.

I still figure a 40 gallon water tank will last longer than a 13 gallon holding tank. So, empty one, fill the other every 2-3 days and we should be OK.

Moen model A725 Drop Ell

Yet to be fabricated is a stainless heat deflector which will mount over the heater and direct exhaust out the open locker lid, or at least disperse it within the locker.

Until I can actually have my wife take a shower, while monitoring a thermometer (and possibly myself) placed in the starboard locker; I plan on opening the locker lid whenever we shower.

I didnt get into all the picky details in this, if you have any questions I can help with, just send me an e-mail at:

debaker@charter.net

So what about the hot air?