We decided to place the gate in the same area as the standing rigging. By doing this, you can use the rigging as a hand-hold when pulling yourself up in high water level, or helping you step down in low water level. We also decided not to install extra stanchions since the gate is normally closed when not in use.

Before picture

I used a Sharpie marker and marked the lifeline on both sides. This is where you measure twice and cut once. Make sure the turnbuckles are adjusted mid-point to give you room to adjust the finished line. The pelican hooks used have plenty of thread to make the same type of pre-adjustment while measuring and cutting.

Marking the line

A sharp knife or razor and a lighter are needed to strip off the wire coating. The cut end is heated by the lighter which will cause the coating to separate from the wire strands. Pull it off with a pair or pliers.

Stripping tools

Boat U.S. has a deal locally where you buy the tool for $200, and return it within 2-days to get your money back. This allows you to do your work at the boat so that your measurements are correct.

Crimping tool

This is a very nice pelican hook, made by Johnson Marine. I crimped three times using apposing crimps. This is supposed to keep the barrel straight, but I did find a slight curve anyway.

Snap Gate Pelican Hook

This is the Interlocking Gates Eyes on the top lifeline. I used this part so that there is no kinking of the gate line when it is unlatched at the opposite end.

Interlocking Gate Eyes

Here is a close-up of the finished hook. You could add a small strap on the ring to assist in opening, but these hooks are very nice and I will probably leave them as-is.

Pelican Hook on top line

Here are the upper and lower lifeline pelican hooks. A very nice addition to Liberty.

Finished project