I have always envied all of the newer boats around me for their bow rollers. Even the Cherubini H30 has a nice broad bow that takes a bow roller pretty well but the H33 is just plain skinny forward. After reading of some H33 owners building a wooden bowsprite that seemed like the way to go but somehow, the wooden appendage just didnt seem to go with the fine lines of the H33. Then, sometime back Tim Schaaf posted in a response his setup which included an anchor roller that he had managed to shoehorn in up there and some pretty heavy ground tackle. here is a link to the earlier post:
http://www.sailboatowners.com/archive/archiverview.tpl?rid=2001136154829.72
The installation that I show here is not as heavy as Tims but then I dont expect to anchor in the conditions he describes.
The red circles indicate how the deck fittings were moved for the new geometry imposed by the anchor roller

Geometry change of Deck Fittings

The black fiberglass cap had curvature fore and aft and side to side so I made a flat pad to bed the anchor roller down. First, I located the limits of the pad aft by basically just fitting the bow roller up there parallel to the centerline and then moving it aft till the lower projection of the roller contacted the stem. I also dry fitted the anchor to check that the plow point, ( I used a Delta 22) didnt interfere with anything and to see how far aft the shank of the anchor extended. With the location of the anchor roller set, I used a heavy rasp to partially level the bedding area and then laid in thickened epoxy, flattening the top with a piece of flat aluminum plate which approximated the dimensions of the bearing surface of the roller. I covered the plate with thin foil to facilitate separating it from the epoxy after initial set.

Epoxy pad for the Windline BRM-2

Another view of the pad. You can see that it fairs out near the forestay fitting and is thicker outboard leveling it side to side. It is also about level fore and aft. Once set, the BRM-2 is put in place, the holes marked and drilled. More on this on the next figure

Bearing Pad Photo 2

Roller comes with 3 mounting holes for 3/8 bolts. I added another as far forward as I thought I could get a washer and nut on it. The location shown above worked but just barely. Space is very tight up in there. The layup that far forward is very thick. It took 3 bolts to reach through. I bedded the anchor roller down to the pad with 5200 caulk. The photo shows that the starboard reefing hook had to be cut off to give clearance for the roller and for the anchor later.

BRM-2 anchor roller mounted

It may not be completely apparent from the photo but the fairlead and cleat locations indicated in the first photo and shown in final location above works ok. There is clearance for dock lines around the anchor and rode and the angle between the fairlead and cleat and between the rode and cleat are ok. Tight but ok. The red ratcheting tie down is a temporary measure. Im still trying to figure out something cheaper than the Windline $50 over the center chain tensioner. Any Ideas?

Complete Installation from above

The BRM-2 has a lower projection which cradles the Delta anchor wonderfully well when the anchor is pulled and tensioned aft, preventing it rolling in a seaway. You can see how the angle of the mounted plow point is about equal to the angle of the stem. The anchor launches and retrieves well and stays away from the topsides.

Elevation of Complete Installation