There was still antifreeze from the winter in the water tank because we have not used it this summer. We had a new hot water heater installed this Spring and did not have any water pressure. I finally crawled down into the starboard lazeret to check out the water pump and found that the hose was kinked. Then we started to fill the water tank to flush it out. Well, the tank started to leak around the port edge.

We decided to remove the lid and see what was below. We asked about it on HOW and got good info on how to go about it. We removed about 25 screws and pried up the lid with a couple of putty knives. There was sealant around the edge.

The initial opening of the water tank under berth

The baffle across the center of the water tank is removable. We put more water into the tank to clean it out some more.

The vertical post in the upper left is the rudder post.

About the baffle across the center

has a reinforcing bar down the middle running fore and aft. The rim of the lid has about 1 1/2 inches of overlap around the edge.

The water tank lid

Baffle has holes for water transfer and slot in top for the reinforcing bar in the lid.

There was a little trash in the bottom of the tank

Baffle has holes and slot in top

Water tank without the baffle

Water tank without the baffle

Water tank after it was drained and cleaned.

Top left is the outlet to the water pump. Top right large hole is the water inlet. Small hole is the overflow and air inlet.

We cleaned all of the old sealant off the rim of the water tank and the lid, using adhesive remover and green scrubbies. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation. We used a box fan.

Water tank after it was drained and cleaned

Putting baffle back in

Putting baffle back in

Cut two holes in the lid for access ports.

Positioned them so that one is on either side of the internal baffle. Bought six inch ports with see-through covers at Boat/US for $9.95 each.

Cut two holes in the lid for access ports

Bottom of lid

Bottom of lid

Used a suction handle to lift and move the lid

Used a suction handle to lift and move the lid

Lid back in place with ports installed. Ended up using some Marine Silicon Sealant by DAP. We called their Customer Service line and basically found out that most of the sealants are safe once they have cured.

Used the awls to position the lid with the old screw holes.

Lid back in place

We used a box fan to clear out fumes from under the cockpit. Kept it on the whole time we were working. Put a small battery fan into one of the access ports and let it blow out the other. Left it on when we left. It will run about 20 hours on a set of batteries.

This was not a very hard project but now that we have the access holes we can thoroughly check the tank every Fall and Spring.

We love the Hunter 31 and plan to keep it many years so we have lots of projects we plan to do.

Used fans to disperse the fumes