Well, a couple of folks asked me about this and I tried to send them some crude drawings I made (Im not an artist) but I thought a picture is worth a thousand words. So, here ya go.

Obviously, its not really SINGLE line reefing, its just single line PER REEF. Big difference there. Just keep following the blue line through the pictures.

Single Line Reefing

Ok, heres a little better shot of the forward end of the boom. Note the double cheek block on the boom and single block connected to the reef ring (versus cringle) on the stock sail. All of the blocks in this rig are those with plastic components with very rounded edges to reduce any chafe as much as possible. As you can also see, Ive got the Cunningham secured completely; not much racing this time of year, so I dont even bother using it.

For those that are REALLY interested, you can see I have not removed any lines from the inside of the boom, The original reef lines are still there although I have cut them and secured them with a heaving knot in both ends, just in case I have to use them in some sort of emergency like the outhaul cable or topping lift breaking. The smallest of the blue and white line coming out of the boom is the topping lift. Although I used to have it on the 2:1 purchase on the aft end of the boom, I decided to raise the boom with the sail down to 2 above my head and leave it forever. When raised, the mainsail puts roughly 8 of slack in the topping lift which is just enough to keep it off the sail but still be loose. The heaving knot in the line is the safety stopper; if someone at the mast accidentally releases the topping lift, it will only fall 6 and not to the deck. Beyond the first heaving knot is another foot of line just in case something chafes, I have plenty of line left. All I have to do is untie the heaving knots ad rerun accordingly. And I NEVER have to coil the line!

Single Line Reefing - Forward

Just another shot of the blocks and lines on the upper portion forward.

The Upper Half

This was the real trick as the stock line organizers were not going to cut it. I replaced the standard 2-line deck organizers with two 2-line Harken organizers on each side. By the way, if you have a 1985 model H31, the deck organizers are connected to the deck with the screws going through the middle of the sheaves, not the corners. After removing the old organizers, I cleaned the deck and repaired the old holes as they cannot be reused for this installation. I then drilled the new holes for the new stack of organizers. There is a 1/4 aluminum or SS (didnt remember to check which but as hard as it was to drill and tap, Im fairly certain its SS) plate running across the deck inside the fiberglass. Not sure how far it runs but its plenty big for all four corners of the deck organizers I used. (Ive got a request in to Hunter to send me a copy of the design of the upper deck...well see.)

When drilling you will go all the way through the SS, BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO KEEP DRILLING THROUGH TO THE OVERHEAD! I was super cautious about this and didnt do it, but it would be heartbreaking to accidentally drill a hole in the interior overhead.

The organizers are secured with four 1/4 X 4 machine screws which will not go through the overhead in the cabin. Roughly 3 is used by the height of the two organizers stacked on each other, 3/4 to get through the SS and about 1/4 below the SS. (Im guessing from measurements)

Yes, the organizers are twice as tall now as before which makes them a trip hazard, but they are the same height as the handrails and the line cover, and just barely taller than a hatch. Besides, now that all the lines are run aft, why would I be up there to trip over something? Well, putting the sail cover back on while in port might be a good reason, but if I trip and fall overboard then, I probably deserve it.

Ok, Im getting wordy again. The LInes on this picture: The only one that might need mention is the one far to port that runs forward to the foredeck. Its the foreguy I installed. Hated drilling all those holes in the deck to mount hardware, but hey, I really prefer a pole.

Getting all the lines aft

OK, a bit out of focus but you get the idea. From bottom to top in the photo and inboard to outboard on the boat are:
Bottom: Boomvang (Solid white)
Second: Reef 1 (blue with white stripe)
Third: Reef 2 (blue with white stripe)
Top: Main Halyard (white with blue stripe)

Notice the Reef lines are labelled as read in English from left to right, in order. So when all the labels fall off, it should still make sense.

Notice on the main halyard, the long black mark on the halyard itself just to the forward side of the clutch. Under normal air, this long black mark should be on the aft side of the clutch when the sail is FULL up. (Full mark, Full Sail) If you look at the spool of line hanging to the side you will see the double reef mark; two short marks. (Two shorts = Double shortened sail) Hidden from view is the single reef mark. In all cases, all that is required is to ease the main halyard until the desired mark is just on the aft end of the clutch. When it is, secure the clutch and pull the appropriate reef line.

Rope Clutches - Starboard

Oh yeah, didnt mention this in the other photo. The rope clutches are Spinlock XA which are plenty strong for what I need. You cannot use the existing holes from the stock-mounted racing clutches. (Unless you have these as stock equipment, hahaha) Reef, foreguy, spin topping lift, and boomvang lines are 3/8, Halyards are 7/16.

Inboard to outboard, bottom to top in the photo:
Bottom: Jib Halyard (White with blue stripe)
Second: Foreguy (white with red and green stripes)
Third: Topping Lift (white with red and green stripes)
Top: Spinnaker Halyard (Black with red, green, and white stripes)

Spinnaker sheets are, of course, red and green; I tried to color coordinate all the spinnaker gear for extra clarification: Any thing with red or green in it is for the spinnaker in some way, dont touch it! :)

Rope Clutches - Port

I previously posted a picture of the 6:1 purchase system, but it was with the sail cover on, and I thought this one might be even better for explaining how to do this.

6:1 Purchase Underway

This is what it looks like when you get it all together. Obviously, Im taking the picture, but you get the idea.

If you look close, you can see the mainsheet draped over the binnacle; very handy if I was standing at the wheel.

OH yeah, I had to turn to get the sunset in the picture; no remarks about the courseline there, OK?

One more thing, I installed the the cockpit speakers one and one-half shackle lengths away from the tether tie-down ring so I wouldnt ding the speaker covers with a tether shackle. After seeing cockpit speakers mounted in dozens of places on dozens of boats and usually kicked in, I thought this was the safest as I did not want to put speakers in the combing pockets where I store the winch handles.

Feel free to write me with any questions.

A Picture of Me Single-handing