Serving sailors online since 1997
Hunter OEM Parts
General Marine Parts
Square base stanchions and gate
posted 06-12-2020 by redteledrew
Click for larger view
Wanted a more substantial stanchion so forward lifelines stay tight when the gate is dropped.
Click for larger view
Step 1 - cut down toerail.
Used thin 4-1/4 cut off wheel to make a bunch of vertical cuts straight down to the bottom along the profile.
** A thin piece of metal taped to the deck protects against stray cuts.
Then used angle die grinder to finish and round the edges.
** Outside upper lip leaves a sharp edge on the underside that also needs to be filed down.
Used thin 4-1/4 cut off wheel to make a bunch of vertical cuts straight down to the bottom along the profile.
** A thin piece of metal taped to the deck protects against stray cuts.
Then used angle die grinder to finish and round the edges.
** Outside upper lip leaves a sharp edge on the underside that also needs to be filed down.
Click for larger view
Click for larger view
Shimming of the bases is required, so no need to go completely flush with the horizontal part of toerail.
Leaving a little bit of sidewall keeps water running to the stern versus down sides of the hull.
Leaving a little bit of sidewall keeps water running to the stern versus down sides of the hull.
Click for larger view
1/4 Starboard material was used to shim along the starboard toerail.
Port side mounted without a toerail shim.
Square bases had 4deg. angle.
Port side mounted without a toerail shim.
Square bases had 4deg. angle.
Click for larger view
**Drilled only the toerail holes first.
Dry fitted all the bases with stanchions tightened to see where hull shimming was required.
Taped the hull around the perimeter of the base and over all the toerail to protect from thickened polyester resin.
Wrapped the bases with painters tape and realse wax to the bottom side.
Sanded hull to bond with the resin and applied peanut butter consistency to the bottom side of the base.
Some bases need to be propped up off the deck to straighten the stanchion vertical. A small cube of wood was taped to the bottom of the base with release wax before setting. This void in the pad was filled after pad had set and base was removed.
Dry fitted all the bases with stanchions tightened to see where hull shimming was required.
Taped the hull around the perimeter of the base and over all the toerail to protect from thickened polyester resin.
Wrapped the bases with painters tape and realse wax to the bottom side.
Sanded hull to bond with the resin and applied peanut butter consistency to the bottom side of the base.
Some bases need to be propped up off the deck to straighten the stanchion vertical. A small cube of wood was taped to the bottom of the base with release wax before setting. This void in the pad was filled after pad had set and base was removed.
Click for larger view
Once hardened the base is removed. The pad is sanded smooth and corners rounded before applying gelcoat.
Then pad is read to drill and countersink for thru hull fasteners with backing washers.
One hole will most likely hit the existing aluminum deck plate, but just drill through it.
Angle slightly to allow room below for socket against the hull.
The liner was cut away in these areas for access. To be trimmed out later to make presentable.
Then pad is read to drill and countersink for thru hull fasteners with backing washers.
One hole will most likely hit the existing aluminum deck plate, but just drill through it.
Angle slightly to allow room below for socket against the hull.
The liner was cut away in these areas for access. To be trimmed out later to make presentable.
Click for larger view
Click for larger view
All thats left is to run 1/4 dyneema lifelines.