H26/260 Leaks

The H26/260 is a pretty dry boat but as it ages, owners report leaks that are often difficult to locate. Some of these comments may not apply to both models of the 26 foot Hunter water ballast boat. If you want to add or comment to this list send an e-mail to george@kobernus.com

Identifying sources of leaks: Owners report success in locating leaks by sprinkling talcum powder in suspect areas. Also, carefully placed towels or tissue will tell you where the water is coming from and going. Adding food dye to the ballast tank may also help determine if the leak is coming from the tank, but remember that there is 240 gallons in the tank so youll probably need a lot of dye.

Common Location of Leaks:

Ballast Tank Valve: Forgetting to plug the air hole next to the valve will usually result in some water sloshing out during heeling. This water will drain down into the bilge. Sometimes the plug needs to be tightened or replaced. Also, there is a tank inspection hatch that is secured by a gasket and screws that may need re-bedding.

Sliding Hatch: Virtually all H26/260s hatches leak to some degree or another. During normal rains most boats will stay try. Water can be forced into the cabin when washing the deck or during a driving rain. There is a teak strip in the aft portion of the sliding hatch that acts as a stop and diverts water to the slides. Make sure the wood strip covers the width of the hatch and that it is well caulked. Owners report the most success fixing this problem simply by installing a Sunbrella cover over the hatch.

Aft bunk: The sugerscoop design of the stern is a mixed blessing. When sailing, the stern sits under water most of the time. There are a number of screws and bolts (Rudder/Ladder/Motor Mount etc.) that penetrate the stern into the space where the holding tank and battery are stored. If you cant find the leak, its best to remove the wall in the aft bunk so you can shine a bright light on the interior space. Have someone flood the exterior of the stern and cockpit with water to see where it might be coming through. Holes made for light and engine wires are a common source of water leaks. One person reports a hair line crack on the bottom side of the joint all the way across the stern and up the port and starboard. He cleaned the crack and sealed it with 3M 5200 all the way across the stern and above the water line on both sides.

Bow: Leaky water tank valve and quick connectors. The water tank valve may be leaking or the black water line connectors have to be pulled apart to ensure a tight fit. If theyve been squeezed together, theyll leak. This applies to any of those black connectors along the waterline to the head and galley. Also, make sure the refill and vent hoses are not disconnected or leaking. Tighten hose clamps or replace hoses as needed.

Compression Pole Base: Water can come up from the keel area; often only when sailing. Look for rust and moisture at the base of the pole. Check leaks in centerboard bolts under the table which drain into area between floor and above ballast tank. Shake the post and you may see water leak from the cup it rests in.

Compression Pole Top: Water can leak down at the base of the mast where the centerboard up-haul line goes through. The caulk may have failed letting water run down into the space between the deck and ceiling of the cabin. Remove the light near the pole and look for moisture. The problem is actually the seal between the center post and the deck. It probably has a tendency to run forward, too. It is really hard to caulk back behind the centerboard line turning block.

Under sinks and in Lazerettes: Check water lines, hoses, clamps and thru-hulls. The floor under the sinks is also the top of the ballast tank so if you screwed something to the floor or accidentally scratched the deck under the sink you might have a small leak from the tank. Also, the plastic L drain fitting in the bottom of the sink is fragile. Check to see if it is cracked or broken. This is a common part available at most hardware stores. Another source of leaks here is at the base of the thru-hull, the valve is mounted on a small circle of wood and if the boat has been out of the water, the wood shrinks and leaks where the wood contacts the fiberglass hull.Cockpit seams. See aft bunk and bilge notes.

Cockpit deck: There is a seam that runs across the cockpit floor. Look for loose screws and failed caulk. Re-caulk with Sikaflex 295, as it has a high high degree of UV and mildew resistance. To see if water is leaking into the liner below the pedestal remove the access panel in the ceiling of the aft bunk. Flood the deck above to see if water is dripping in.

Thru-hull connection: Sometimes there is seeping at the wood block the thru-hull goes through under the galley and head sinks. This block shrinks during storage and when the boat is put in the water the wood swells and stops the leak. If this try a little 3M4200 or re-bed the thru-hull.

Hull Deck connection: Early boats had quality control problems here. Remove the stern rubrail and look for cracks along the sugerscoop or loose/missing screws. Remove/replace and caulk the screws. See the knowledgebase for more detail on this.

Other obvious locations: Most owners install depth and fish finders with shoot through the hull transducers, but if youve installed any device that has put a hole in your hull you should check here first. Also, dont forget the forward Hatch and portholes. These hatches may look closed, but a strong water stream from a hose or driving rain may still seep through if they are not secure.