These two cheek blocks mount a stainless block fixture on a teak pad shaped (well nearly) to the curvature of the mast. I got them (along with all the other hardware for this upgrade) from the grab box my rigger kept in his shop for the good cast-offs from other boats. I would mount them a little higher, since the lowest mounting screw interferes with the mast step fixture. That means I have to take out the screw to pull the mast.

See Deck organizer. rope clutch, winch, and cleat.

All of this hardware should be in line, with enough room to serve each of the pieces. Also, check that the clutch is aft enough to reach from the cockpit. The winch is a two speed model, great for tensioning the halyard in a blow. Only the main halyard is led aft in this picture. Since the genny is roller furled, we seldom adjust its halyard. We had the asymetric spinnaker halyard back, but realized that we have to go to the fordeck to feed the spinnaker out of the bag, and raise the sock, so we moved the halyard back to the mast. (There are two winches on the mast, courtesy of a prior owner.We intend to rig the clew outhaul back to the cockpit so we can easily tune the main in a blow. But raising the main from the cockpit is a major plus for the Admiral, and me!

See Hiding the nuts and bolts with a grab rail

The total installation put 12 new holes through the deck, and the cabin liner. All the holes were drilled at 3/4 inch, filled with epoxy/filler, hardened, then drilled at 1/4 inch to seal the deck core. Tha left a lot of nuts, bolts and washers visible, and seeking our heads on the cabin liner roof. So I mounted a teak rail on a cherry plank, routed the plank to cover all but a few of the bolts, and used the remaining bolts to hold the plank in place. Now we have a great hand-hold for going aft to the head or working in the kitchen under weigh. We finished this mod two years ago, and I would change nothing but mounting the cheek blocks a little higher as mentioned already.