Spring 2002 and I foundd myself between contract jobs. So with the time, the most costly part of this job. I opted to strip the multitude of layers on crumbling bottom paint from my 84 25.5.

I wrestled with using a chemical stripper, grinder or 5 orbital sander. The plan was to strip, fair, barrier coat, and apply anti-fouling the bottom. First was the stripping. I opted for the cheapest and safest method. The orbital sander with 40 grit disks. I was to find it was indeed this job was everything people warned me about, dirty, slow, poisonous and back-breaking. But I had time being unemployed and I was up to the task.

Stripping begins

Here is the mierable situation. From the picture you can see at least five visible layers of bottom paint before gel coat is reached. You might say Why not sand-blast well I have heard sandblasting can damage the gel coat and it would have cost me $1500 to have a pro do it. My budget was $250 for this job so sanding it was. Most of which will go to paint. I had the sander and the time and wanted to spend the money on good paint.

I wore full safety gear during the sanding. Repirator, hood, suit and gloves. It was all stored in a garbage bag. The sander also had the feature of capturing the majority of the dust. When it was all over I had a grocery bag full of bottom paint dust!

This stuff is nasty dispose of properly. Also change the disk frequently. I changed disks about every 15 to 20 minites of sanding. In all I went through about 90 disks....! Total time to strip: about 60 hours.

The Layer

After much research and talking with local sailors, here on Lake Michigan the preffered antifouling paint is VC-17 from Interlux. This is a fast bottom paint with teflon used by the vast majority of racers and cruisers in the Milwaukee area. Interlux recommends VC-Tar for the barrier coat. VC-17 bonds to the VC-TAR chemically and creates an excellent coating. Some people do not like VC-tar as it is difficult to roll. It is thick and sticky and takes 35 days immersed in water to fully cure Expect to have marks from the sling when the boat is launched. But these can be repaired next time. Be prepared for two to three seasons of burninshing to get the bottom really smooth so they tell me.



Black as Tar

I managed to squeeze three coats of VC-Tar on the 25.5 with three quarts. Just right. Three coats are recommended and the rolling is done on with a mohair roller. Once over, do not go bcak and forth. This creates bubbles that dry in the paint. You want the paint to smooth out as it adheres to the bottom. For my first time I think I did a pretty decent job.

I actually didnt mind the tar. I did not thin this paint. I used it right out of the can after mixing the hardener. I forgot to mention this is a two part epoxy paint. This is probably why people dont like it. You do not want to spray this paint. Unless you are a pro.

Add the hardner to the can and stir gently. It has the consistency of think sticky syrup. After stirring let the paint sit for 20 minutes for bubbles to disperse. You then have around 4 hours or so to use it.

Second Coat of Tar

Rolling VC-17 goes fast. IN just minutes the first coat is applied. VC-17 is a suspension of teflon and copper powder in a thin swolvent. This paint evaporates very quickly. After mixing add only small mounts to the roller pan as it will be gone by the time you come back to the pan to wet you roller.

The paint comes with a bag of powder under the plastic cap of the can. Stir in the powder quickley and start rolling. Put the lid back on the can. I have seen other people add all the paint together in one big plastic bucket. Mix all the bags with the solvent then pour the contents back into the cans and reseal. For larger boats they can get a crew of three or four and in an hour or so have three coats applied.

Once VC-17 is applied, it is easy to maintain. Just scrub in the spring and apply two more coats. The paint is very thin and does not build up like traditional anti-fouling paints. It wears away and leaves the bottom smooth.

The Easy Part

VC goes on with a copper color. As the boat sits in the water it turns the color you purchased. I purchased the traditional black, which is more a dark black grey. It also comes in red and blue. they are not bright colors by any means.

I should also mention this is a FRESH WATER anti-fouling paint. Or in areas where fouling is very light.

Copper Cool

The combo of VC-TAR and VC-17 is a great investment to make on your Great Lakes boat. Spending the summer sailing with this combination the boat is noticibly quicker. In 10 knot winds where I would reach only 4.5 to 5 knots I am now seeing speeds routinely above 6 knots and this is to windward. The combination of removing the irregular painted surface and replacing it with a smoother, fast paint has made a huge difference. More acceleration and less underwater turbulence means less heeling and finding the groove more often. I have a new respect for the speed of the 25.5.....maybe a PHRF campaign next season....? Who knows some new rigging and a sexy suit of sails will happen this winter.

80 hours and $250 dollars later I have myself a $3000 bottom job and the pride of having done it myself....

See you out there!

Ready for the Water