I have finally taken the time to get some images of the various changes and improvements (in my opinion only) to the Hunter 170. Some of these have been passed on by other 170 sailors and appear elsewhere in the Archives, others by Hunter factory reps while others are of my own. Hope you enjoy the article and feel free to build upon these ideas. Make sure you report back on your changes, suggestions and improvements.

First of all, this one is FREE. When routing the main sail outhaul, route it as pictured in the image. You can either tie off the end of the outhaul to the eye strap or use a shackle. Pictured is a small Keypin with Bar and Captive Pin shackle.

Main Outhaul Rigging

Actually two modifications. If you trailer sail and want very quick setup, install four Small Johnson Quick Release Shroud Levers and install one Quick Release Pin for each one. Note that the levers are installed opposite of one another (one opens fore and one opens aft). Also note the lanyards that tie the pins off to the levers. The pins are 1/4 x 3/4.

If you do not trailer your boat often and rigging time is not an issue, you can get by with one set attached only to the upper shrouds. This gives you a good tensioning mechanism without having to swage screw turnbuckles onto new shouds.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER!!!

Quick Release Shroud Levers/Quick Release Pins

Again, if you trailer alot, install a Quick Release Pin in the gooseneck, 1/4 by 1 1/4. Again, attach a lanyard. Saves a little time rigging.

Gooseneck Quick Release Pin

Seeing we are talking about pins, install Quick Release Pins in the Furling Drum if you trailer. I have installed one in the upper hole and one in the lower. I do not know if both are required, but I was on a roll!! The pins are 1/4 diameter. Check the length, I believe that they are 1 long.

Furler Drum Quick Release Pins

This simply is not right! A line is to run through a cleat not over it. As set up factory, from the back of the boat you cannot get the line to run through this cleat without pulling down on the rope, like by your ankles...you know what I mean!!! If it wasnt for the Flairlead, the line would not center itself in the cleat when trying to cleat off. I installed a 1 riser to elevate the cleat slightly above the plane of the exit of the chase tube. Now to cleat you just flip your wrist...same to uncleat. This material is called UHMW. Nylon, plastic or wood would work fine. Use the cleat base as a template.

THIS IS MY #1 RECOMMENDED CHANGE!!!!

Riser for Roller Furling Cleat

I have installed Colored Grab Balls on the Roller Furler, Rudder Uphaul and Rudder Downlhaul Lines.

Nothing magic hear just easier on the hands. Note that in this image a loop extends out of the back of the Furler Line Grab Ball. I shortened this line when I installed the ball. When single handing, I clip another length of line onto this loop to extend the line. It is unclipped when I have someone to crew. Just less rope lying around.

As for the Uphaul and Downhaul use any color you want. I used Red for the Uphaul (STOP) and Green for the downhaul (GO). Easier to teach that than blue line and white line.

Grab Balls on Roller Furler Line

I have installed a Clam Cleat Quick Release Cleat to the Rudder Downhaul, directly opposite the factory Clam Cleat. This is a neat little cleat! Got this idea from the archives. I left the factory cleat installed and hang the Uphaul line in it and the Quick Release for the downhaul line. By having both cleats available, the uphaul is always readily available. Note both lines hanging down in the image above.

Clam Cleat Quick Relase Cleat for Ruder Downhaul

I posted this to the site some time ago. Search the Archives for close ups and specifics for the mount.

This is my Clinometer mounted in a Sail Track Mount that I devised. I will modify the mount this Winter to include space for a compass and GPS. I would like to mount the equipment to a removable bracket which affixes to the Sail Track Mounts. Ill keep you posted.

Sail Track Mounted Clinometer

Picked this idea off the Archives some time ago. Many ways to do this.

If you do not want additional purchase, at least tie off the Centerboard Uphaul line to a shackle that attaches to the Taberacle. The line comes tied to the Tabernacle from the factory, and it WILL cut through in no time.

I DO NOT like my arrrangement and will replace the Harken Bullet Blocks with Harken Micros. The Bullet Blocks take up to much space, as you can see above, leaving the centerboard extended about 1 out of the hull.

Experiment with 3:1 and 4:1 purchases. 3:1 seems to work fine and I do not need more rope laying around the bottom of the boat.

Remember, if you change the purchase you will have to get longer rope.

Centerboard Purchase

Two tips here.

Trailers may vary, so this one may not apply to all.

I have a KARAVAN trailer. The mast mount was WAY TOO TALL in its lowest position. I am six feet tall and had to stand on the tongue just to reach the rubber mast mount. Cut it off appropriate for your stowing and towing conditions. The top of my mount is now 6 foot when moved to its highest position. Plenty of height for my vehicles, my height and boom stowage method.

Also, I installed a Boom Rack made of 4 PVC and attached it to the trailer using 4 PVC hangers. Both ends have screw covers. I kind of like this as I do not like the boom swaying from the mast. Personal preference I guess.


I hope these ideas may be of value to others. As I said in the beginning, not all of these ideas are mine, I just posted collectively what I have used. If yours is listed and I did not give credit, please forgive the oversight. I look forward to seeing other 170 owners suggestions and improvements.

Trailer Modifications