My friend Joe Rheubeck and I both have 81 H-33s. We both knew we wanted to add propane lockers and started tossing ideas around.

Where the portside stern cleat resided seemed like the best location. This required moving both stern cleats to a position just forward of the backstays, a little more awkward, but worth the compromise.

My original idea was to buy the 5lb propane locker from Tasco (wwww.tauntonstove.com), but Joe had grander ideas, he wanted a 10lb tank. So his search began.

Where to Make Locker

Joe found Armstrong Nautical (www.armstrongnautical.com) makers of a 10 deck plate that would take a 10lb propane cylinder. (Cost about $35).

Armstrong Deckplate

This plate requires no outer ring, just a hole of the right size (10-1/4)

Armstrong Deckplate

So how do you make a perfectly round 10-1/4 hole? With an electric drill and the Rheubeck Device (patent pending, not!). Joe made this from scrap aluminum. At the long end of the T is a 3/8 pivot bolt. At the intersection of the T is a 3/8 drill guide (size chosen because it was available, use whatever size you have), the drill guide will prevent repeated drillings from eating up the device.

The Rheubeck Device

Also note to one side on the T is a 3/8 hole one drill diameter from the drill guide, on the other side the hole is 2 drill diameters from the guide. The Armstrong cover requires a 10-1/4 hole. The distance from the center of the pivot bolt to the outer edge of the drill is half that, 5-1/8.

Rheubeck Device

Locate the center of your desired opening, drill a 3/8 hold, and secure the Rheubek Device in place.

{sorry, this photo is after the first complete circle, cant change it now. You get the idea though)

Rheubeck Device Mounted

Chuck a 3/8 bit in your drill, and drill your first hole. Doesnt matter where.

First Hole

Drop a 3/8 guide pin through the hole 2 diameters out on the device, and through the hole you just drilled in the deck. Drill your second hole.

Second Hole

[First Circle] Continue in this manner until you get back to your first hole (see 3 photos back)

[Second Circle] Now move the guide pin to the hole 1 diameter out in the device, and make a second circuit. Notice how you have a pattern of pairs of holes. (SORRY AGAIN, this photo goes with the next text, and that photo with this. Cant change it though)

Second Circle

Once more around putting the guide pin in the last set of holes you drilled, and youre almost done.

Third Circle

Now use your drill to connect the dots. Before long you have:

Connect the Dots

Rough, but we can fix that.

Rough Hole

A drum sander on you drill turns your very rough hole into an almost acceptable final product.

To make it truly perfect only two steps remain.

I took a scrap of 2/6, about 10 long, marked and cut a 10-1/4 radius on it, then stapled 80 grit sandpaper on it. The final sander was about 7 end to end. (sorry, no photo)

Sand

Using two hands to work the sander back and forth and around the opening left a smooth, perfectly round hole.

Sanded edges

For the next step, Joe and I used different approaches for the same results. By the way, Joe gets full credit for all epoxy/fiberglass work.

I used a 3/8 spade bit (because I happened to have one that day) to drill 1/2 - 3/4 into the plywood core, then used a narrow chisel to remove the core from the edges.

Joe fabricated another Rheubeck device, and routed the core on his boat. Sorry, no photo.

Joe filled the edges with West System epoxy, thickened appropriatly.

The next day my 2x6 sanding block was used to smooth the surface. Well be painting the non-skid soon, and plan on painting the edge at that time.

Epoxied Edges

What the final product will look like on the outside. Now no uncomfortable stern cleat to sit on. Blends in nicely dont you think?

Lid in place.

Sorry, no detailed photos. The existing shelf, hull, and transom make up most of the locker. Cardboard templates for forward and centerline bulkheads are painstakingly made, then 1/2 plywood is cut and fitted, then re-cut and re-fitted, and one more time. Eventually they fit well.

Locker walls

Joe then fiberglassed and vacumn bagged the new bulkheads at home, creating a sandwich of plywood with thin fiberglass skins on both sides. The panels were fitted into place, and more thickened West System was used to secure the new walls. At the same time all holes in the shelf were filled with epoxy.

New wall

Holes in the forward bulkhead were drilled, and the proper sized vapor tight thru hulls were installed. Not shown, is how the propane line was run. Joes idea again. A 10 length of 1-1/2 PVC conduit was cut to length and secured under the toe rail from about a foot forward of the propane locker forward to the galley locker, right where wires come through. A PVC 90 degree was worked through the wire hole in the galley locker and connected to the conduit (no need for glue, just press fit), then a short length of conduit from the 90 straight down behind the stove. A 15 pre-assembled length of propane line (with wires attached if desired) can easily be pushed up from behind the stove until it comes out near the propane locker, then passed through the vapor tight fittings.

Vapor Tight Thru Hulls

The regulator, solenoid, and other components were assembled and secured to a piece of poor mans starboard (scrap of Wal-Mart plastic cutting board). Two pieces of 1 aluminum angle are measured, drilled, bent and attached to the assembly. About 2 of angle is bent over at 90 degrees and holes are drilled to fit over the last two toe rail bolts where they hang down inside the locker. Note that my setup allows for a line for the grill on my stern rail.

Regulator

Sorry, the toe rail bolts are hidden behind the aluminum. CAUTION! Send young children away while installing the nuts as your language might get quite colorful.

Regulator Installed

Only one thing left to do to make this a fully operational propane locker. To meet ABYC and USCG standards there must be a drain from the bottom of the locker overboard. The drain must be at least 1/2 diameter.

Joe chose a simpler more elegant solution. He placed a drill bit right where the transom and shelf meet, and drilled a hole out the stern. A little epoxy coating, and viola!

After much thought I choose another path, I often do. A 3/4 plastic thru-hull was choosen.

Propane Drain

I choose to place the drain as low as possible, and so Weyrling has a new a##hole.

Weyrlings transom

This is what the thru hull looks like in place. Dont try this if you weigh more than 200lbs, have short arms, are claustrophobic, or cant work blindfolded. This is one miserable place to work. The area is so tight, laying on my stomach or back, I couldnt tilt my head to see what I was doing and had to work by feel.

Inside

For the bottom of the locker I found this fitting at West Marine. A 3/4, 90 degree with a white strainer that screws on. Use a 1-1/4 spade bit to drill a shallow depression that will accept the shoulder of the white strainer, then finish with a 1 hole saw for the rest of the fitting.

Locker Drain

Heres the final drain. Time will tell if I should have chosen the simpler path. Oh well, its fiberglass, easily patched.

The hose is marine sanitation hose. I had spent the previous day checking out new Hunters, Catalinas, Benetaus etc and found most of them used this for their propane drains.

Locker Drain

With a 5lb tank in place. I could easily place a second 5lb tank in there and have room for a few 1lb cylinders. Note the stainless eye bolt, theres a second one near the transom. A bungee cord serves to secure the tank in this position.

Weyrlings Locker

With a 10lb tank in place. Still plenty of room for a few 1lb cylinders. Notice the cleat. Joe hasnt installed his yet, mine ended up about a cleats length forward of where this one is sitting.

Cynosures Locker

This is what Cynosures completed locker looks like from the outside.

The Final Locker