Lets face it, all boats leak. Some more than others. Check the article on locating leaks in the H26/260 in the knowledgbase section under H26/260 Leaks Although usually very dry the H26/260 has a tendency to leak at the base of the compression post, This is a very common leak which is often misdiagnosed because of how the water behaves once inside the boat. The amount of water that accumulates is dependent on how badly compromised the seal has become. In my case I could get 2-4 gallons per outing if the conditions were rough enough. You can verify the leak very easily. You will need 2 people to do this. While one person helms the boat, have the other look at the area around the bottom of the compression post with the small cover removed. This works best if you can steer the boat into oncoming waves (no need for sails here- motor will do). I suspect that as you cut through the waves, the resulting water pressure forced into the centerboard well will shoot water right through the space between plate and CB well. I also suspect it wont be just bubbling as you described. It will be clearly surging in like a heart beat! Make sure your CB is down for this exercise. Heres where things get tricky... Once the water gets in it has many places it can go. The first place it goes is on top of the water ballast tank. This is why most owners think their ballast tank is cracked (including me). Once on the tank, the water will make its way to one side or the other (usually both) and can run forward or aft. When it runs aft, it will collect in the small bilge area under the aft bunk. If theres enough water and the boat heels a bit, it can penetrate the galley cabinets where small holes for wires or hoses are drilled or can go the other way into the head cabinet. If the water runs forward, it will invade the storage area under the V berth and access your dinette storage under the seats. So, basically, you have water all over the boat and it never seems to be coming from the same place. One thing that should be noted is that if the leak is from this area, you will NOT get any water penetrating when the boat is at rest (ie. in a slip or calm mooring). The water only comes in while under way. OK. Now for what you really want to know. Should you remove the compression post or just try to patch it??? Well, that depends on 2 things. 1. Your confidence in doing that repair. 2. When you plan on using your boat again. At the end of the season is a good time to do this work as the sealant you need to use must cure at least 7 days before any pressure is placed o the sealed parts. If you plan on sailing a bit longer, then hold off with a temporary repair until you haul the boat out. As far as confidence, youll have to be the judge of that... The temporary repair simply involves drying the area at the base of the compression post really well and applying large amounts of 4200 around the edges of the plate and all the screws you see. Also, its not a bad idea to tighten any screw you see if they seem loose. Do not use 5200 at this time as it will be very hard to remove later (take my word on this!). The following article will describe the procedure I used to remove the compression post in a 94 H26. This repair is probably similar on the H260. Generally, you can correct most leaks coming from the top or bottom of the post by packing more sealant around it as well as the bottom of the post around the stainless plate without need for removal. I needed to replace my CB line and I was getting leaks on top and bottom of post so I decided to overhaul the whole thing and re-seal like new. Hopefully, the pictures and description will help you decide if you want or need to take on this project. The first thing to understand is the components of the assembly. The parts are very simple and straight forward (See Pic# 1). The compression post is actually a 2 piece assembly consisting of a stainless post (tube) on which the mast step plate is permanently welded and the bottom plate which sits on top of CB trunk under dining table. The CB line runs through the post and exits just under the mast step plate. The hole in cabin top that the compression post passes through is solid on all sides. This means that as long as there is sealant between post and hole sides it will be waterproof. Over time the sealant may break down and crack which allows water to trickle down the post into the cabin. This is the issue I had. The bottom of the post sits inside a round receiving piece which is part of the bottom plate assembly. The following process is easier with 2 people, but can be done alone (as I did).

Step 1. Remove the 4 screws holding down the mast step plate.

Step 2. Remove the 2 compression post retaining screws at base of post.

Step 3. Lift table free of locking pin and remove the pin from post. Step 4. Free your deck side CB line so that it is no longer attached to anything and free of all sheaves except under mast plate. Step 5. Using large flat screwdriver or other pry tool **Gently** pry the mast step plate off the deck.

Be careful not to place too much pressure on gelcoat as you will crack it. Try various spots around the plate so as to lift and break sealant evenly (use of a solvent like Debond 2000 can be helpful here). Remember that as you lift the post out, the table will need to be supported and centered so that post does not bind on it (this is where a second person comes in handy). Continue to lift post and break seal. Twisting the assembly helps break the sealant. Once free, lift the post completely out (remember the table) and pull CB line free from post. Post will come out as 1 piece.

Step 6. Clean/scrape all sealant from both ends of post until only smooth stainless remains. Clean short receiving tube on bottom plate of all sealant. Use coarse steel wool to remove any rust or stubborn sealant if necessary. Step 7. Once everything is clean and tidy, reverse procedure to replace all components in the proper location. Make sure to use an enormous amount of 3M 5200 under mast plate, in deck hole around the post (youll want to go back and hand pack as much as possible here from inside after post is reinstalled) and in receiving tube on bottom plate. Be mindful of the CB line and try not to get sealant on it if possible. Step 8. Make sure all screws are tight and sealed. Assembly should be left to cure for at least 1 week before stepping mast and using boat. Note: If you are also removing bottom plate (top of CB Trunk) to reseal then after step 5 follow the procedure outline in separate article posted here.